Best Switch to use

I must be a very heavy vaporer.
I have made several mods.
I have used Tactile switched and horn switches.
After a few weeks the buttons seem to have bad spots in them.
I have to press them several time to get them to fire or push them in a certain possition(like a joy stick) to make them fire.
Does anyone have a reason why this happens to buttons that most would claim are very reliable or does someone have a recommendation for a indistructable switch.
Before someone suggests that the switches are getting wet, I have checked to make sure the mods are not leaking, and they are dry inside.
Thanks.

 

Are you using switches rated for 3 amps or higher? Unless your using some sort of MOSFET switch, a properly rated switch will last longer. Also, all switches have a cycle rating. This tell you how many times a switch can be pushed before it starts to fail.

 

+1 for what AZ said


If you are not using a mosfet wit your tacts every time you hit the button it burns just a little off the contact inside thus creating the joystick effect, as far as horn switches go maybe you are just pushing them to hard.

Show us which horn switches you are using.

 

you could have also gotten them to hot during the solder process to make the plastic retainers that hold the contacts brittle and they are starting to crack and give way.

 

These are standard horne switches from Madvapes.
Rated 12v 5 amp. Horn Style Switch, Black - Switches - DIY Parts
In the mods I use, voltage is set at 4.25 volts with 3ohm atty, using less that 2 amps.

 

i like purely mechanical switches,like in the touchwood. almost failproof

 

What is the "touchwood"?

 

Papa might be right you could have over heated it when you soldered it. I have been using those switches for months with no issues. I little trick to soldering those is to put some epoxy between the contacts before soldering, just remember let the epoxy cure before soldering

 

浏览附件4446 a beautiful all wood and brass australian mod,also comes in a mini,if you google touchwood mod,you should get some hitsthis is a good friends,i hope he doesnt mind me posting it.

 

maybe I am old school and I admit it has been a while since I did much soldering but, does anyone use added flux to help clean and make a solid connection of is it flux core only?

To me the added flux made things work quicker and less heat to the part.

Maybe that was just me

 

Nope I agree saves on soldering time and I feel makes the joints more secure.

 

Flux, pre tin the wire and I always use a small pair of hemostats clipped on as a heat sink when soldering switches.

 

Nice I never thought about the hemos I will have to give that a try next time.

 

My guess like papa Hoyts is overheating the switch while soldering.

Always pretin the wire and pads before soldering. Then it only take a quick dab on the pad to solder it.

 

It's actually pretty hard to find a push button rated for more than 2A DC. Here's one I'll bet could take it though.

 

ever so often a soldering iron will heat the tip slowly. I have heard people say my tip went out. Tips don't go out. A little piece of sand paper will bring it back to new. I always use flux. I also tin my tip. It should only take a second to solder a wire. I use the spare hands, because mine are to shakey. They also help heat sink. A lot of times they will solder and pull on the wire before the plastick cools. That moves the contact inside the switch. I am with xxdz. the horn switches are really reliable. I do a lot of testing by hooking up to 12v and putting at least a 2 amp load on them to see how long they will hold. Then I examine the switch to see how it failed. You would really be surprised at what you find.

 

I would say I have to agree with mechanical switches. Really nothing to fail with them. So long as you keep them clean they are always there for you

 

Proper soldering iron.....The iron should be of the pencil sizing as soldering is spot,not used to flow as in a joint being sealed.
Solder should melt to the irons tip on contact,if not iron tip needs cleaning....The solder should stay on the tip,not roll off,if not clean it
dip in flux and re tin the tip. Be assured that the slightest solder will do the deed,,don't overheat/use excessive solder.
Keep the heat to the pins/wire being joined,,as said above any heat sink will do,,even metal bobby pins will do nicely...
As long as the switch is rated above 3 amps your in good shape. The amp rating is below the actual,it's composed of contact
metal to endure a constant of 3+amps,,,that's sufficient for a fixed device.
Use a dc switch,,,it function is different than ac,unless the switch is built for dual use......DC jumps the contacts, it flows from negative to positive unlike ac which just
jiggles about.....Most contacts are self scrubbing but in dc they can pit where the contact metal sheds from to neg side to the
positive contact,,,causing a "hole" on the neg contact and a "hill" on the positive that is an indication that something is wrong on a constant basis.
They are built to take a "hit"every now and then.....There should be some You Tube video on soldering
at the circuit level..........Keep in mind that switches are built differently if the metal of the contact arms have memory,,like a spring,,excessive
heat can remove the temper of the arms memory and cause early failure........... I believe that might be the root of your problems...